There are layers of good and bad, as well as frustration and elation. For Thanksgiving, we would visit my grandmother in Kingston, RI. She lived in a beautiful, modern house on eight acres of woodlands and fields. The house had huge glass windows where it was possible to gaze out at the horizon and catch an occasional glimpse of a fox or a deer passing through. Both my mother and grandmother were great cooks. Our meals would consist of roasted turkey, chestnut stuffing, giblet gravy, mashed potatoes, rutabaga, cranberry sauce and roasted green beans (because we need something green).
About half way through the food preparation, it would start. My mother would subtly provoke my grandmother and eventually a fight would break out. Invariably, there would be a huge blowup and one or the other would storm off in a dramatic huff. In retrospect, I’m sure these battles had more to do with some childhood wrong than the fact that the giblets were not ground properly. The result was that dinner was always delayed, but it was worth it because the food was amazing.
Eventually, the ladies would settle their differences, and we would gather around the dining room table, break out the fine silver and enjoy good food and family. After everyone was stuffed, we would bundle up and take a long walk on some wooded paths that circled through the property. When we got back, we would light a fire and eat homemade pumpkin and apple pie.
In the restaurant business, the holidays are a mixed bag, too. My employees have become my family. We go through the crush of the season together, dealing with high stress and large demands of our customers. Usually, we emerge feeling physically and verbally beaten.
Even though we get on each other’s nerves (kitchens are tight quarters), we still celebrate together. I close the restaurants on Thanksgiving and Christmas, so we all end up either at Good Food or my house. Everyone brings a dish, and we enjoy a great, big holiday meal. And, yes, from time to time, one of those holiday arguments or quarrels breaks out. But hey, that’s family.
Chef Bruce Moffett is the executive chef and owner of Moffett Restaurant Group, consisting of Barrington’s Restaurant, Good Food on Montford and Stagioni. He’s been in the restaurant business 35 years, and cooking even longer. You’ll find him in the kitchen mostly at the flagship, Barrington’s. To make reservations, call 704-364-5755. For more information, visit www.moffettrestaurantgroup.com.